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Food ‘Seals the Deal’ for Critic at North Central Bistro Maison

Plus a look at James Island’s newest barbecue spot

Leslie Ryann McKelllar

Writer Robert Moss recently returned to the Charleston City Paper as a critic, and this week he has a review of Upper Upper King restaurant Maison. The pate de campagne “couldn’t be any better;” the salmon rillet is “quite nice;” and the summer vegetable tart is “summer vegetable tart.”

Moss starts in on the entrees with a paragraph dedicated to the $70 duck for two. He begins, “Each breast is seared rosy pink then sliced lengthwise and arranged to form an elongated oval, the meat sides touching and the skin running around the outside.” The monkfish chop and coq au vin are equally beguiling.

The wine and cocktails are good too, but Moss writes, “Ultimately, though, it’s the food that seals the deal.”

Post and Courier critic Hanna Raskin takes a stab at the new Martin’s Bar-B-Que Joint on James Island with one star review for the food. She writes, “... barbecue is not Martin’s forte. The restaurant’s best dishes are those in which smoked meat plays a supporting role, such as the generously portioned salads and sandwiches that function as handheld showcases for slaw and an array of dialed-in sauces.”

Maison Expertly Prepares Classic — and Inventive — French Fare [CP]
Martin’s Bar-B-Que Joint on James Island Is at its Best When BBQ Isn’t Involved [P&C]

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