Critic Finds Restaurant For ‘When You’re Hungry or Tired or Even Grumpy’

Post and Courier critic Hanna Raskin clues readers in to the somewhat-under-the-radar restaurant Goulette with a positive write-up. The French-ish eatery opened at the end of May without a website, social media, or listed phone number. Raskin explains that Goulette probably doesn’t need these things, because it a true neighborhood restaurant — made for folks walking by and in need of a reliable meal. “It’s a restaurant for when you’re hungry or tired or even grumpy ...”

“For one thing, visitors might well find Goulette boring,” says Raskin, “There is a sameness to the offerings at Goulette that runs contrary to Charleston’s reputation for imaginative cooking.” Proteins, like chicken, lamb, and pulled pork, are plated with a Little gem lettuce salad, and fries. Raskin writes an ode to the crisp frites:

How many magnificent french fries does a diner need?

All of these fries, with mayonnaise, thanks. The fries are bathed twice in scorching hot rendered duck fat, producing the model creamy-crispy contrast that Americans fruitlessly seek in their microwaves and fast-food bags a few million times a day. Rich and enthusiastically salted with flakes big enough to be visible, the fries pair nicely with whatever lively wine you’re inclined to pick from the approachable list.

At Italian newcomer Juliet, Charleston City Paper critic Vanessa Wolf finds “pokey” service and a too-warm dining room, but how’s the food? Skip most of the menu and go straight for the pizza section. Wolf says, “Truly, impeccably perfect ... you need this pizza in your life. And in your belly. The crust is flavorful with a nice char and great chew, while the slightly salty sauce boasts chunks of fresh cherry tomato. Top that with fresh mozzarella and slivers of basil, and there are no more words required in this sentence.”

• Unpretentious, Comforting Goulette Is a True Neighborhood Restaurant [P&C]
• French-ish Goulette Now Open in Former Lana Space [ECHS]
• Juliet's Margherita Pizza Is the Gold Standard for Purists [CP]