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‘Gummy’ Gnocchi at Pawpaw; Tuna Test at Poke Tea House

What the critics are up to this week

Leslie McKellar

East Bay newcomer Pawpaw received a decent review from Charleston City Paper, though critic Vanessa Wolf did call out the burnt gnocchi. This week, writer Post and Courier Hanna Raskin points to a few more flaws at the Southern eatery. The andouille doesn’t have enough smoke and spice, housemade penne tastes “straight from a box,” the “gummy unsalted gnocchi, drowned in a greasy sauce tainted by truffle oil” is unsatisfying, and tomatoes are “mealy and tasteless.” Haven’t chefs learned not to feed Raskin (or anyone) an out-of-season tomato? She’ll always point that out. Safe bets for Pawpaw: Raskin approves of the burger, pork chop, and mac and cheese.

City Paper put newcomer Poke Tea House through the wringer by sending Wolf, once a Maui resident, to see if it’s Hawaiian-born dish is legit. The ahi tuna bowl gets her approval, though it varies from what’s found on the islands, she states, “this might be as close as you can get to Kahului in Charleston, and after living on Maui for four years, it's close enough for me.”

$25 Cocktails at Pawpaw; $120 Porterhouse at 492 [ECHS]
Pawpaw Does Not Live Up to What Southern Food Means in Charleston [P&C]
Poke Tea House Offers a Dizzying Number of Combinations on the Classic Hawaiian Dish [CP]

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