It has finally happened. Post and Courier critic Hanna Raskin has awarded a full five-star rating to a Charleston restaurant — a first for her since joining the paper in 2013. The lucky restaurant? Sean Brock’s nod to the Gilded Age, McCrady’s Tavern. Raskin geeks out on pretty much the entire menu and doesn’t have a bad word to say (well, she thinks the dining room could be remodeled and the service only got three stars, but that’s practically nothing). She explains here:
Purely through its awesome dishes (in the 1802 sense of the adjective), McCrady’s Tavern has captured America at its brashest, most hustling, pleasure-bound best. Like blues couplets and baseball games, it is of then and now and forever, somehow all at once. Also in the way of those domestic arts, the restaurant comes across as a whole lot of fun: Escargot is tucked into a hollowed-out marrow bone stood up like a Doric column. Caviar is served with tater tots. You won’t get more wit for your dollar anywhere else in town.
She does muse that the dining room seemed empty on her visits, but after this knockout review, that may not be the case anymore.