James Island novice Screen Door was in the news shortly after its opening because of menu overhauls and the executive chef parting ways. This week, Charleston Scene critic Deidre Schipani inspects the Folly Road restaurant.
Schipani explains that opening chef Blake Joyal may be gone, but his "influence remains with Thai-leaning chicken wings, chimichurri sauce, turmeric-rubbed chicken, flavored aiolis, pistachios over peanuts and well-constructed salads." She calls the menu "accessible" and "eclectic." If the above list doesn't sound approachable, Schipani reminds readers that if you want "Burger and fries, pizza and wings, pulled pork and ribs, Screen Door’s got your back."
The critic's biggest complaint is that many times the ingredients don't match the listings.
That was the culinary whiplash we experienced, what was on the menu did not appear on the plate as described and the integration of the ingredients, whether into a sauce or as a vegetable, were hesitant.
Schipani thinks Screen Door might be able to pull it together if the kitchen can remember to plate the "smoked corn with the pork chop" or the "charred tomatoes on the shishitos."