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492's 'Bank Breaking Mediocrity' Leaves a Bad Taste in Critic's Mouth

The Disco Sour and the ambiance are worth a visit, though.

Leslie McKellar

Only a month after its opening, 492 gets a seriously mixed review from City Paper critic Eric Doksa. The "petite portions" and "table full of bank breaking mediocrity" cleanse his palate of the goodwill he initially felt toward the "stunning" space and food presentation.

Doksa criticizes the "hailstorm of salt" on one dish, the lack of salt in the next. One broth "lacked flavor and acidity" while the flavor profile of the tomato braised farro "mimicked that of SpaghettiOs." At the end of the day even the duck breast and terrine, "easily as good as any of the best dishes around town," is too small for his liking at four bites for $17.

On the plus side, head bartender Megan Deschaine has created Doksa's "new cocktail favorite: the Disco Sour...[a] subtly sweet, refreshing cocktail." Sounds like the bar could get busier than the dining room.

492

492 King Street, , SC 29403 (843) 203-6338 Visit Website

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