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Critics Recommend Duck Fat Fries and Wings at Cumberland Street Smokehouse

Back-to-back reviews for the barbecue newcomer.

Erin Perkins is the editor of Eater Carolinas.

Downtown barbecBarbue restaurant Cumberland Street Smokehouse delighted double critics this month. Charleston Scene sent Deidre Schipani and City Paper dispatched Katherine Connor to the 5 Cumberland St. establishment, and they published similar thoughts.

On chef Kyle Yarbrough's famous duck fat fries: Schipani said Yarbrough has "carefully retained his duck-fat-fried potatoes" while remaking the menu. And Connor found the " perfectly crisped frites .... favorably sweet and salty ..."

What about the wings: Connor enjoyed the slow-cooked chicken, and wrote "the meat was meltingly tender while the skin was crisped and seasoned with Cumberland's signature dry rub barbecue mixture." Schipani urged readers not to miss the wings.

Not all was great, both critics disliked the coleslaw. Schipani called it "lackluster in flavor," while Connor said, "unseasoned" and "bland." Though, who goes to a barbecue joint for the coleslaw?