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Charleston Critic Robert Moss Retires From Restaurant Reviews

A fond farewell.

Robert Moss
Erin Perkins is the editor of Eater Carolinas.

Restaurateurs, you can finally remove the photos of Robert Moss from the kitchen, because the writer is hanging up his reviewer's cap. After seven years critiquing menus for the City Paper, Moss is done. He explains, that even though readers think his job is easy, it's actually hard work:

Composing a passable review or two is challenging enough, since it takes practice to get the hang of the form. But what's even harder is churning out one after another, month in and month out.

There are only so many ways to describe food.

Yes, he grouses about the mediocre meals he suffered through, but he also thinks the excitement of Holy City dining may have fizzled. Whether palate fatigue or a grave warning, the critic ponders if Charleston is entering (or already in) a culinary slump.

Perhaps the whole scene is finished and the center of gravity has shifted permanently to places like Nashville and Louisville where things seem fresher and more vibrant. Maybe Southern food is on the outs altogether, and the listicle compilers will move on to wild rice and walleye, demoting pickled okra to the culinary status of Chilean sea bass.

While Moss may not be publicly contemplating the Lowcountry dining scene anymore, his writing will go on at Southern Living as their first barbecue editor and a forthcoming book on the same topic.