Anatomy of an Icon: Glass Onion’s Fried Green Tomato Po Boy

The Lowcountry has a lot of classics, from tried-and-true dishes that rose from the field hands of yore, to more modern dishes that, for one reason or another, are now thought of as part of our culinary DNA. With the right care and a practiced hand, these classics can sometimes be combined to make something greater than the sum of their parts. Case in point: the Fried Green Tomato Po Boy with Pimento Cheese from West Ashley's Southern food stalwart The Glass Onion.

"We have offered [the sandwich] off and on for three or four years now," says chef/owner Chris Stewart. "Originally, I only ran it during the summer months when green tomatoes are readily available. Now we offer it every day at lunch." This includes Saturday, where the Po Boy adds a hearty, meatless, yet soul-affirming option to the restaurant's only brunch service.

The sandwich's cornerstones share the spotlight below:

1. The Tomatoes
Fried Green Tomatoes get top billing in the Po Boy. Stewart is proud to source them locally, a practice that extends everywhere possible on the menu. "We are lucky to have Kurios Farms located just up the road in Goose Creek. They are an indoor hydroponic farm that's responsible for our red, green and black cherry tomatoes. We also buy lettuce and cucumbers from them year round."

2. The Bread
When it comes to bread for this and all of Glass Onion's Po Boy sandwiches, Stewart does not equivocate. "Since day one, all of our Po Boys have been served on Leidenheimer french bread. Operating in New Orleans since 1897, we believe their bread is the only true Po Boy bread. We have it brought in twice a week."

3. The Pimento Cheese
While opinions vary widely on what should be in, or out, of classic pimento cheese, The Glass Onion touts a creamy version with a little kick. Stewart points to the ingredients as the stars here, more so than a magic recipe. "We use extra sharp cheddar from New York, fresh green onions and, of course, Duke's Mayonnaise."

Robert Donovan

[Photo: Robert Donovan]