The latest revitalization at 819 Coleman Blvd., The Americano, was on shaky ground immediately after opening. The executive chef exited after three days, and the fate of the kitchen was a bit uncertain. Consulting chef Nathan Thurston took over and, as critic Eric Doksa discovers, he's doing a fine job putting out Latin American-inspired plates. "Thurston was able to transform a bland and boring menu into something worthwhile," says Doksa.
The City Paper writer digs the tacos, devours the tortas, and dives into the scallops. Doksa not only praises Thurston's revamped menu, but gives props to bar manager Brent Sweatman for continuously running a stellar cocktail program throughout the transitions.