After Charleston Scene and City Paper gave newcomer Leon's Oyster Shop glowing reviews, Charleston Magazine critic Jeff Allen takes a turn studying the fried chicken and oyster establishment. Unlike local writers Robert Moss and Hanna Raskin, Allen doesn't put forth an enthusiastic epistle for the eatery, but takes a more neutral "different strokes for different folks" tone.
He spends a portion of the review comparing the restaurant to others around town. For example, Leon's is a hipster/more casual oyster tribute than The Ordinary: "better matched to young men sporting handlebar mustaches." The chicken at Leon's is unlike the comfort food at perennial favorite Martha Lou's: "far removed from the crackling, crumbling fowl proffered at familiar Charleston landmarks."
How you read Allen's review depends on your perception of the word "hipster." If that's a good thing, the critic thinks you'll love Leon's, but if that's not your scene, Allen informs you that the atmosphere hints at "backstreets of Brooklyn" (presumably the birthplace of hipsterdom).