Critic Eric Doksa doesn't deny the appeal of newcomer White Duck Taco Shop, but asserts the eatery isn't for him. He's a man of traditional taco tastes, like barbacoa or al pastor, and White Duck's ambitious concoctions just don't speak to his palate.
"The good news is that most of them are $3.50 each and the corn tortillas are fresh and don't collapse after the first bite.
The bad news: there's too much going on. The masa-based tortillas serve as a battleground for competing flavors and there's always a clear-cut victor."
Doksa finds some good qualities at White Duck, but he gives the impression that the next time he's searching for tacos, he'll be at North Charleston taquería La Nortena or a truck on the side of Rivers Avenue.
· White Duck's hefty tacos are a battleground of competing flavors [CP]
· All White Duck Taco Shop Coverage [-ECHS-]