"Is Mt. Pleasant ready for snout-to-tail house-cured meats and unusual small plates?" Critic Robert Moss ponders this question in his City Paper review of chef Brannon Florie's latest concept, The Granary. The writer is skeptical that citizens east of the Cooper are willing to try the modern way of dining typically reserved for downtown crowds.
Ignoring if others are prepared for the non-entrée evolution of eating, Moss dives into the starter section of the menu. Samples of pork belly, clams, lamb, and "even kale" delight him, as he declares, "plates follow through on the promise of the menu verbiage, and one or two extra elements take the dish from good to great."
A departure from the delicate plates seen in many casual fine dining places, the mains at The Granary are "not particularly elegant" with "chaotic blobs of sauces adding splashes of color," according to Moss. Though they may not be works of art, he thinks they are damn tasty. However, he contends the small plates outshine the bigger menu counterparts. He also believes this is just one hurdle chef Florie will work out soon.
Moss ends on an optimistic note, stating that, with a few tweaks, the newcomer can easily become a destination restaurant for everyone, not just the denizens east of the Arthur J. Ravenel Bridge.
· The Granary satisfies Mt. P's need for modern fare [CP]
· All The Granary Coverage [-ECHS-]