"And that raises his question: does this kind of upscale comfort food really belong in a bowling alley?" asks Robert Moss in his review of Home Team Kitchen inside The Alley this week. There's "sinful" shells and cheese topped with pork belly and Rockefeller-style deviled eggs ("a beautiful combination of texture and flavor"), but the great tots up the "risk of greasy fingers dropping 14 pounds of ball on toes." [CP]
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