[Photo: Praneendra Kuver]
This week, City Paper's Robert Moss gives Robert Carter's instantly popular Rutledge Cab Co. a thorough examination, from the absorbent cloth napkins straight to the real taxi door on the wall. Also, the food. He likes the charcoal-grilled wings, the ham chop and something Carter is calling "charm grits," which are served alongside omelets.
Additionally, there is an aioli so good dining rules were thrown out the window:
"The beer-poached spiced shrimp ($10.50) are milder in flavor than the name suggests, but they're accompanied by a delightful pile of bright pink pickled onions and a little ramekin of chile aioli. The aioli's perfect balance of creaminess, tanginess, and spice moved our table to unanimously waive all double-dipping rules, and it will probably do the same for yours."It's not all perfect (there's a confusing peach relish), but Moss approves of the concept and adds, "It's just the kind of place the Wagener Terrace neighborhood has been waiting for."