[Photo: Praneedra Kuver]
Stars packs it in on the weekends, and Allen writes perhaps its "popularity works against it."
"I'd like the service to be as starched as the white jackets and the desserts at the end to sing as inspiringly as the pomp and price of Stars demands."
But he also points out the place is perfectly calm on a Tuesday and appreciates the nuances of a smoky crab soup. His daughter gives the bacon tater tots "an approving smile."